Where We Stay in Italy

Every hotel on this page is one we book by name. The featured ones have their own story, told suite by suite with our photos

Booked by Name • City by City • Our Photos, Our Stays

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rItalian

★ Our Stay
Grand Hotel Rimini

Three stays and nineteen nights: Fellini's belle-époque legend is simply our Rimini. Chandeliers, the private beach, a negroni in the garden at...

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MarePineta Resort

Ten August nights in 2019: the classic pineta resort with its own beach club through the pines. Milano Marittima as it was...

WePuglia: Terrazza su Polignano

WePuglia: Terrazza su Polignano

Rome

★ Our Stay
W Rome

Rome gone contemporary — two palazzi near Via Veneto turned glossy and playful, with a rooftop scene that earns the hype. We...

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Getting to Rome

Fiumicino handles the long-haul flights, with the Leonardo Express running to Termini in half an hour, and the high-speed rail network makes...

Where We Stayed: Kolbe Hotel Rome

Our base at the foot of the Palatine, a former convent with a citrus garden in the courtyard. The Forum is five...

Le Méridien Visconti Rome

Prati calm across the river from the crowds — Vatican in walking range, trattorias the neighbors actually use. Booked for our next...

Hotel Piazza Venezia (now Hotel Castellino Roma)

We booked it in 2018 — then came straight back. Steps from the Forum with the whole centro walkable, it is the...

The Glam

Our Monti base on Via Nazionale: the Forum a downhill walk in one direction, Termini ten minutes in the other, and the...

W Rome

Bold W design inside a historic palazzo off Via Veneto. The skylit lounge, Giano by Ciccio Sultano, and a rooftop over the...

Florence

★ Our Stay
Donati Luxury Tower Suites

Suites in a medieval tower with the Duomo filling the window, close enough to read the marble. Our 2022 base, and the...

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Getting to Florence

Most travelers arrive by rail: Santa Maria Novella station sits at the edge of the center, ninety minutes from Rome and forty...

The Westin Excelsior

Arno-front grandeur on Piazza Ognissanti. Chandeliers, river light, and a rooftop bar made for one golden-hour spritz. Our 2019 splurge, worth it...

Venice

★ Our Stay
The Gritti Palace

A doge's palazzo on the Grand Canal where the water taxi delivers you to a private dock, Hemingway's Venice address, and for...

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Getting to Venice

Fly into Marco Polo and arrive by water, or take the train straight across the lagoon to Santa Lucia, where the Grand...

The Gritti Palace

A 15th to 16th century palazzo on the Grand Canal, facing the Salute. Frescoed rooms, the famous canal-side terrace, and a water-taxi...

Milan

Getting to Milan

Malpensa takes the intercontinental traffic, Linate the short hops, and Centrale's great hall is the front door to the rest of Italy...

AC Hotel Milano

Sharp, dependable design-hotel comfort — Milan efficiency in hotel form, and an easy base between the center and Porta Nuova. Ours for...

Naples

Getting to Naples

Naples is seventy minutes from Rome on the high-speed line, and Capodichino airport sits unusually close to the center. The station puts...

Exe Majestic

Our first-ever Naples base, up in elegant Chiaia by the seafront: quieter nights, gallery shopping, and a straight shot to Castel dell'Ovo....

Renaissance Naples Mediterraneo

Four separate stays and seventeen nights. This is our Naples home. Business-class comfort a short walk from the centro storico chaos, with...

Bologna

Getting to Bologna

Bologna is the rail crossroads of Italy: Florence in forty minutes, Milan in an hour, Venice in ninety. The airport is a...

I Portici Hotel

Three stays across five years — our Bologna constant. Liberty-style elegance on the porticoed Via Indipendenza, ten minutes on foot to the...

Tuscany

Rent a Villa in the Hills

Tuscany is the one place in Italy where the right answer is usually a house, not a hotel: a villa or agriturismo...

Amalfi Coast

Getting to the Amalfi Coast

The coast has no airport and no rail line of its own, which is part of the charm: fly or train to...

Rent an Apartment on the Coast

For a week or more, an apartment in Praiano or up the Positano steps beats a hotel on price and on terrace....

Casa Morgano, Capri

Terraced above the Via Krupp greenery with pool ledges facing the sea — our one Capri night taught the lesson: staying over...

Hotel Palazzo Guardati, Sorrento

A frescoed 16th-century palazzo in Sorrentos old lanes — our 2017 base for the whole peninsula: Positano by ferry, Pompeii by train,...

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